The Quick Guide above gives a typical UK growing window for cabbage. Spring and winter cabbages follow different schedules, which are covered in their own guides.
Cabbage grows well in the UK if you get three things right: timing, firm fertile soil, and early pest protection.
Spring, summer, autumn and winter cabbages are sown and harvested at different times, so start by choosing when you want to harvest, then pick the right type for the season.
When to Sow and Plant Cabbage in the UK
Cabbage sowing times depend on when you want to harvest. Spring cabbages are started in summer for harvesting the following spring, while summer, autumn and winter types are generally sown earlier in the year.
| Cabbage type | Typical sowing time | Typical harvest |
|---|---|---|
| Spring cabbage | July to August | March to May |
| Summer cabbage | February to April | June to August |
| Autumn cabbage | March to May | September to November |
| Winter cabbage | April to May | November to February |
| Savoy cabbage | Spring to early summer | Autumn to winter |
Plant seedlings out once they are sturdy enough to handle outdoor conditions. Firm them in well and water after planting.
For more seasonal detail, see our guides to growing spring cabbage and growing winter cabbage.
Best Types of Cabbage to Grow in the UK
The best cabbage depends mainly on when you want to harvest and how much space you have. Pointed and summer cabbages are good for quicker crops, while Savoy, winter and spring types are better for extending the season.
| Type | Examples | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Pointed cabbage | Hispi, Greyhound | Quick crops, smaller gardens and early harvests |
| Summer cabbage | Golden Acre | Tender heads for summer harvesting |
| Red cabbage | Red Drumhead | Colour, autumn harvesting and storage |
| Savoy cabbage | Wintessa | Cold weather and autumn/winter harvesting |
| Winter cabbage | Tundra | Harvesting through late autumn and winter |
| Spring cabbage | Durham Early | Overwintering for spring greens and early heads |
For most growers, it is worth choosing two or three types with different harvest windows rather than planting everything at once. This spreads the crop through the year and reduces the chance of having too many cabbages ready at the same time.
Where to Grow Cabbage
Cabbage grows best in a sunny, open position with firm, fertile soil. It will tolerate some light shade, but too little sun can slow growth and reduce the size of the heads.
The soil should hold moisture without becoming waterlogged. Adding compost or well-rotted organic matter before planting helps improve fertility and moisture retention, but avoid leaving the ground too loose — cabbages establish better when the soil is firm around their roots.
| Condition | Best for cabbage |
|---|---|
| Light | Full sun; light shade is usually tolerated |
| Soil | Firm, fertile and moisture-retentive |
| Drainage | Moist but not waterlogged |
| pH | Neutral to slightly alkaline is preferable |
| Position | Open enough for good airflow and easy access |
Leave enough room around the crop to fit netting or insect mesh.
How to Sow and Plant Cabbage
For most people, the easiest way to grow cabbage in the UK is to sow in modules or trays first, then plant out once the seedlings are strong enough. Direct sowing can work, but young seedlings are more exposed to slugs, pigeons, flea beetle and drying out.
For the simplest reliable method:
- Sow cabbage seed about 1cm deep in modules or trays.
- Keep the compost moist but not waterlogged.
- Grow seedlings somewhere bright and cool enough to prevent them becoming leggy.
- Thin or pot on if they start crowding each other.
- Harden plants off before planting outside.
- Plant into firm, prepared soil.
- Firm each plant in well by hand.
- Water thoroughly after planting.
- Protect the crop with mesh or netting straight away.
Planting Cabbage Outside
Once seedlings are sturdy and hardened off, plant them at the correct spacing for the type you are growing.
At planting time:
- Plant deeply, with the lowest leaves at soil level, then firm the soil well around the plant.
- Firm the soil around it well.
- Water each plant in properly.
- Cover the crop with fine insect mesh for cabbage whites or bird netting for pigeons straight away.
Cabbage Spacing
Spacing depends on the size of cabbage you want to grow. Closer spacing gives smaller heads, while larger winter and storage cabbages need more room.
| Cabbage type | Typical spacing |
|---|---|
| Small or pointed cabbage | 30–35cm |
| Medium cabbage | 40–45cm |
| Large winter or storage cabbage | 50–60cm |
Avoid overcrowding, as poor airflow can increase pest and disease problems.
Can You Grow Cabbage in Pots?
Yes. Cabbage can be grown in containers, but compact and pointed types are usually the easiest choice.
Use a large, stable pot filled with fertile, moisture-retentive compost. One cabbage per container is usually simplest, as plants need enough room to form a decent head and can dry out quickly when crowded.
Keep the compost evenly moist and feed if growth starts to slow. Containers may need more frequent watering than plants in the ground, especially during warm weather.
Large winter and storage cabbages are generally less practical in pots because they need more space and take longer to mature.
Watering, Feeding and Care
Watering
Keep the soil evenly moist, particularly once the plants are established and the heads begin to form. Water deeply when needed rather than giving frequent light watering.
Try to avoid letting the soil dry out completely and then soaking it heavily, as sudden changes in moisture can contribute to split heads.
Feeding
Cabbage is a hungry crop, but plants growing in fertile soil improved with compost or well-rotted organic matter may need little extra feeding.
If growth looks weak or the soil is poor, apply a suitable vegetable feed during the growing season. Avoid overfeeding with nitrogen, as this can encourage excessive leafy growth rather than firm heads.
General Care
Keep weeds under control so they are not competing for water and nutrients. A mulch around established plants can help conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Cabbages also benefit from being firmly anchored in the soil. Check plants after strong winds or frost and gently firm them back in if they have loosened.
Common Cabbage Problems
Cabbages are most vulnerable while young, so early protection and regular checks are more effective than waiting until damage becomes obvious. The main problems are pigeons, cabbage white caterpillars, slugs, clubroot and cabbage root fly.
| Problem | Signs | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Cabbage white caterpillars | Holes in leaves, caterpillars and droppings on plants | Cover with fine insect mesh before butterflies can reach the leaves. Check plants regularly and remove caterpillars or eggs you find. |
| Pigeons | Torn leaves or plants stripped back, especially in winter | Protect crops with securely fixed bird netting. Keep the netting clear of the leaves where possible. |
| Slugs and snails | Ragged holes, damaged seedlings and feeding around the base of plants | Protect young plants, reduce damp hiding places nearby and check around plants regularly. |
| Clubroot | Plants wilt despite moist soil, growth is stunted and roots become swollen or distorted | Avoid moving contaminated soil, improve drainage and use a sensible brassica rotation. Once clubroot is established, rotation can reduce pressure but will not quickly remove it from the soil. |
| Cabbage root fly | Young plants wilt or fail to establish; roots may show feeding damage | Use cabbage collars around newly planted brassicas where root fly is a regular problem and keep plants growing strongly after transplanting. |
| Aphids and whitefly | Clusters of small insects, sticky leaves or insects flying up when plants are disturbed | Check the undersides of leaves regularly. Remove badly affected leaves and deal with infestations while they are still small. |
Cabbage White Caterpillars
Cabbage white butterflies can lay eggs on unprotected plants, and the caterpillars can remove a surprising amount of leaf in a short time.
The simplest prevention is fine insect mesh fitted from planting onwards. Bird netting is useful against pigeons, but the holes are usually too large to stop butterflies reaching the crop.
If caterpillars are already present, inspect the leaves — especially the undersides — and remove any caterpillars or eggs you find.
Clubroot
Clubroot is a soil-borne disease that causes swollen, distorted roots and poor growth. Plants may wilt during warm weather even when the soil is moist because the damaged roots cannot take up water properly.
There is no quick way to clear clubroot from contaminated soil. Good drainage, avoiding the movement of infected soil and maintaining a sensible brassica rotation can all help reduce problems, but rotation alone does not eliminate the disease.
Where clubroot is already known to be present, resistant cabbage varieties can also be worth considering.
When and How to Harvest Cabbage
When Is Cabbage Ready to Harvest?
Cabbage is ready once the head feels firm and solid when gently squeezed and has reached a sensible size for the variety. You do not need to wait for the biggest possible head.
Harvesting once the head is firm usually gives better quality and reduces the risk of splitting, pest damage and deterioration. Pointed and summer cabbages are often ready sooner, while larger autumn and winter types take longer to mature.
How to Harvest Cabbage
Cut the cabbage cleanly at the base with a sharp knife, just below the head.
Remove any damaged or dirty outer leaves after cutting. If the plant is healthy, you can leave the stump and roots in place for a while, as some cabbages will produce smaller secondary shoots from the stem.
Try to harvest in dry conditions where possible, especially if the cabbage is going into storage.
For a full guide, check out ‘When to Harvest Cabbage in the UK: Signs It’s Ready‘
Storing Cabbage
Summer and pointed cabbages are best eaten fairly soon after harvesting.
Autumn, red and winter cabbages generally keep for longer. Store sound, undamaged heads somewhere cool and well ventilated, and check them regularly for signs of decay.
For the best keeping quality, avoid storing heads that are split, badly damaged or already showing signs of pest or disease problems.
Cabbage FAQs
It depends on the type. Fast-growing pointed and summer cabbages can be ready within a few months, while spring cabbage is sown in summer, overwintered and harvested the following spring. Always check the expected maturity time for the variety you are growing.
Young plants may simply need more time, but poor heading can also be caused by overcrowding, irregular watering, excessive nitrogen, root damage or growing a variety at the wrong time of year. Check that plants are healthy, firmly rooted and have enough space to develop.
Some winter and Savoy cabbages are bred to stand through cold weather and can be harvested as needed. How well they cope depends on the variety and local conditions, so choose a winter-hardy type rather than assuming any cabbage will survive outside.
For more detail, see our guide to growing winter cabbage in the UK.
Pointed cabbages such as Hispi or Greyhound are good choices for beginners because they mature relatively quickly and take up less space than many large winter cabbages.
Sometimes. After cutting the main head, leave the healthy stump and roots in place. Some cabbage plants will produce several smaller shoots from the remaining stem, giving you a small second harvest.
